Ultimo, Bali: Inexpensive fine dining in Bali

Andrew Charles, Contributor The Jakarta Post, Canggu, Bali

Please excuse the preamble but I cannot write about Ultimo without giving some of the history, and I know that readers living in Jakarta will appreciate this.

Many years ago, I lived in Jakarta and one of my two favorite restaurants there was Toscana, in Kemang, South Jakarta.

After moving to Bali, Toscana was one of the very few things I missed so I was delighted when they opened in Bali in December 2002.

Even more pleasing was the fact that the original manager from Jakarta, Paulus Lachinsky, came with the whole package and he soon attracted a good-quality clientŠle.

Sadly, things then changed, Paulus returned to Jakarta, the restaurant changed its name to Ultimo in May 2004 and suddenly it wasn't quite so popular any more.

However, changes can be reversed: I recently revisited Ultimo with a friend and we were amazed to see that the prices had been slashed, but without any change to the quality of the food.

We had lamb chops (five) for just Rp 60,000 and a fillet mignon for Rp 50,000. Starters come in at around Rp 20,000 or less, but more details later.

I love the idea of a glass of good-quality house wine at Rp 19,000 (as do many others), so it is no surprise to see that Ultimo is now full every night.

The bar is popular and many people just call in for a drink and maybe a small snack so it is becoming a good place to meet new friends.

Readers in Bali will know about Rumours; this popular restaurant is under the same ownership as Ultimo, with even lower prices.

It doesn't have the sophistication of Ultimo or the efficient air-conditioning but it is still a good place for anyone looking for an excellent meal at a very reasonable price in a crowded environment.

What happened to effect these changes? Paulus Lachinsky returned late last year and he has worked miracles!

Reverting to Ultimo, this is fast becoming one of the most popular restaurants in Bali and it is almost certainly due to the dynamism of general manager Lachinsky.

He knows how to make guests feel welcome; everyone dining there is made to feel important.

The restaurant itself is very elegantly designed with an air-conditioned section at the front, an attractive bar and friendly bar staff.

Another section, toward the back, is equally comfortable and there is also the garden area, which is equipped with high-powered fans to keep the air cool.

Live music is a regular option but it isn't intrusive and generally doesn't interfere with conversation. A friend and I sat very close to the band one evening and we had no problems conversing with each other.

This is the way it should be: Music needs to be in the background and not overwhelming, unless you're at a concert!

I mentioned a few menu items above but, just to give a fuller idea of the food on offer: As a starter, there is a lobster salad at Rp 22,000 or tartara di tono con avocado (tuna tartare with avocado) at only Rp 18,000.

These items are listed as chef's suggestions but the standard menu also offers some wonderful dishes such as salmon carpaccio, chicken salad, minestrone alla Milanese and some excellent bruschetta.

Ultimo is an Italian restaurant so of course there is a lot of pasta on the menu. You can start with the very inexpensive spaghetti aglio olio peperoncino at Rp 21,000 or move up to dizzy heights of spaghetti alle vongole, gamberi e capesante at Rp 45,500.

This is spaghetti with clams, shrimps, mussels, scallops and vegetables and although it sounds good, I have not yet tried it.

The home-made spinach ravioli with lamb ragout is excellent and costs just Rp 23,500.

If you fancy a pizza, there are nine varieties on offer from the simple margherita at Rp 18,000 to four stagioni (seasons) or the four formaggi (cheeses) at Rp 30,000.

One of my special favorites is costoletta di maiale con pere, which is a 250-gram grilled pork chop with pears and some very spicy cabbage: At Rp 35,000 this is a great choice.

"Why is he mentioning so many prices?" you may ask. The reason is simple; the prices are so low that this is one of the main reasons for the current success of Ultimo.

From the outside, it looks expensive -- with air-conditioning, valet parking, a smart bar and linen cloth on the tables -- so potential diners could be worried that to venture inside will be a bank-breaking experience.

The other, very important reason for the restaurant's success is Paulus himself. He greets all guests as if they are long-lost friends and he makes a point of checking every table to see if everything is satisfactory.

I once asked him how they could sell food at less than the price of the raw materials in the shops and he said: "We have a farm in Australia!"

It would be a very unusual farm that raises lobsters, scallops, cows, sheep and chickens but let's just enjoy the products without questioning their origins!

Seriously though, the company does have some excellent connections and are the owners of Pronas and Frisian Flag; not to mention the plethora of Circle K outlets.

I have to say that I was a bit reluctant to write this review because I am afraid that the next time I go to Ultimo, it will be too full, but I wanted to share the good news.

Ultimo Italian restaurant
Jl. Laksmana 104X
Seminyak, Bali

tel: (0361) 738720
fax (0361) 733269