Traditional Batik Gets a Makeover

The Jakarta Globe, Sylviana Hamdani

A model presenting designer outfits made from traditional batik cloth, a symbol of Indonesian pride. (JG Photos/Yudhi Sukma Wijaya)

The last 12 months have been fruitful for the nation’s most celebrated traditional textile — batik. Batik fashion has made a comeback after a decade of lying forgotten in the back of most Indonesians’ closets. This year, the cloth has appeared everywhere from markets to high-end boutiques and runways.

In part, the return to batik has been fueled by a sense of national pride, amid a culture war with neighboring Malaysia over the ownership of traditional dances, art and music.

It was a big moment for Indonesia when the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization listed Indonesian batik as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage in October, and the textile received another boost when President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono who called on all Indonesians to wear batik every Friday.

“Batik will remain a strong element of the national fashion industry,” said Susi Bambang, manager of Danar Hadi boutique in Melawai, South Jakarta. “With Unesco’s recognition, batik is now a fashion icon for Indonesia. More and more people wear it with pride.”

Danar Hadi was founded 42 years ago by businessman Santosa Doellah. It is now one of the country’s leading batik fashion houses, with boutiques in Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Medan, Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Solo.

Earlier this month, Danar Hadi showcased its year-end collections in a fashion show at its four-story Melawai boutique.

The event featured the latest collections from Danar Hadi in-house designers Ainunnisyah, Nurmina Girsang and Lydia Rachel S Lumbanraja, and acclaimed Indonesian fashion designer Tri Handoko.

“In response to the changing market, we are creating new styles for out batik lines,” Susi said. “We want to show our market that batik is suitable for all occasions.”

Ainunnisyah’s creations are feminine and elegant, combining brilliantly colored hand-woven fabrics and patches of batik in contemporary patterns. The shirts, which are embellished with sequins and ruffles, are paired with knee-length batik pareos. The result is a line of slim and modern silhouettes that complement the figure.

For formal occasions, Ainunnisyah presented a classic black-and-white batik collection of medium-length dresses. “Puff sleeves, ruffles and pleats make these dresses look chic and fashionable,” Ainunnisyah said.

She also showcased her line of elegant long-sleeved shirts for men.

Susi said Danar Hadi had invented its own technique to color batik fabric. “It’s a modern technique that saturates soft and comfortable eyelet cotton in vibrant colors,” Susi said.

In Ainunnisyah’s hands, the brightly colored material is transformed into stylish short dresses embellished with frills and intricate embroidery.

Lydia Rachel presented a fresher, more upbeat collection, combining short-sleeved batik shirts with skinny jeans and tights. “My collection is a combination of wavy cutting patterns, contrasting colors and gemstones,” Lydia said.

Lydia’s blouses are bold and edgy with traditional motifs in clashing audacious colors, such as bright pink, emerald green and gold.

“Batik doesn’t have to be formal and serious,” Lydia said. “You can wear my designs on casual occasions, like when you’re hanging out with friends or going to the mall.”

Young designer Tri Handoko presented five of his organza batik creations, dominated by earthy browns. Susi said Tri used a deconstructive method to create his line, meaning fabric is cut and sewn as it sits on a mannequin.

For Tri’s line, the results are graceful loose-fit shirts, crinkled at the waist to generate beautiful sweeping lines around the hips.

“Organza batik has a more luxuriant and elegant look, which is preferred by our customers, despite the higher prices,” Susi said. Prices for a Danar Hadi organza batik outfit start at Rp 1.5 million ($160).

In-house designer Nurmina Girsang showcased her “Big and Elegant” collection. Targeted at plus-sized women, her outfits generate flared A-line shapes, enhanced with colorful sequins, pleats and draperies. “Big women can also look beautiful and elegant,” she said. “I use a special modification of hand-woven material with a soft furry texture,” she said.

The furs, which are actually short threads extending from the fabric, create a luxurious feel. The collection features lereng (slope) and parang (big knife) batik motifs, Nurmina said. “I want more people to know and appreciate traditional motifs.”

In 2010, Danar Hadi will release four new collections by its in-house designers in Jakarta and Solo, as well as high-end designers. The collections to be released next year will include influences from Java, China and Japan.