Yahoo – AFP,
Joshua Howat Berger, September 19, 2015
A tourist
leans by a taxi in front of a portrait of Pope Francis marking his visit
to Cuba on September 17, 2015 (AFP Photo/Filippo Monteforte)
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Havana
(AFP) - Good luck getting a table these days at Atelier, a trendy Havana
restaurant where four charter flights of American Catholics packed the dining
room on the eve of Pope Francis's arrival in Cuba Saturday.
Ditto a
room in a "casa particular" -- a "private house," the
family-run hostels the communist island began allowing in 1997, in its first
tentative free-market reforms.
A Cuban
bicitaxi with portraits of
welcoming Pope Francis in Havana on
September 18,
2015 (AFP Photo/
Yamil Lage)
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Since the
historic thaw with the United States was announced in December, there has been
a buzz in the air in Cuba, where tourist arrivals are up 17 percent since
January compared to the same period last year, according to data from the
tourism studies department at the University of Havana.
American
visitors are up 57 percent, despite the fact that the US embargo still bans
tourist travel to Cuba.
And the
buzz has grown to a roar around the pope's hotly anticipated visit.
David Donn,
who flew down with 186 other Catholics on the charter flights organized by the
Miami archdiocese, said he decided to make the trip partly to see the pope and
partly because of the new allure of an island that has been taboo for American
tourists.
TOPSHOTS
Men fish at Havana's Malecon a day before Pope Francis' arrival
in Cuba on
September 18, 2015 (AFP Photo/Filippo Monteforte)
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"All
my friends are totally fascinated. They've been calling me all week. They think
it's wonderful," said the 63-year-old accountant from Stuart, Florida.
"With
the relationship between the United States and Cuba thawing, I thought this was
a great opportunity to come here and see Cuba before things start changing and
the cruise ships start coming," he told AFP.
That desire
to beat the impending cruise ships as the White House steadily chips away at
more than five decades of policy isolating Cuba is one factor driving the
increase in international travel to the island, said Jose Luis Perello Cabrera,
a tourism expert at the University of Havana.
"People
are taking advantage of this time to capture an image of the reality Cuba's
living at this unique moment, because it's possible that next year there will
be changes," including an explosion of travel agencies, tour groups and
international hotel chains, he told AFP.
The trend
has reached a climax around the pope's trip, he said.
"We're
in a period right now with the pope's visit where all the hotels are booked,
both in Havana and in... Holguin and Santiago," the two other cities
Francis will visit on his three-night stay, he said.
So close,
so far
For many of
the Catholics who made the trip from Miami, the pope's visit is a denouement in
a bitter family feud that has split Cubans and the Cuban exile community in the
United States for half a century.
Booking a
trip across the 150 kilometers (90 miles) of ocean between the two countries
remains complicated.
The US
government allows 12 categories of travelers to visit Cuba -- including
religious groups, which covered the archdiocese trip -- but still bans tourism.
A couple
ride a motorbike next to a portrait
of Pope Francis in Havana, ahead of his
visit beginning September 19, 2015 (AFP
Photo/Filippo Monteforte)
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Ralph
Gazitua and his family faced a nerve-wracking ordeal to get to Havana.
Cuba, which
rejected his wife's visa application when she tried to come for Pope Benedict
XVI's visit in 2012, granted her a visa this time around -- but only an hour
and a half before their flight.
"It
was down to the wire," said Gazitua, a Miami businessman.
But most of
the tourists who have come to Cuba for the pope's visit are from other Latin
American countries -- many from Francis's native Argentina, including President
Cristina Kirchner.
Mexican
artist Norma Ligia Favela Perez said it was important to her to be in Cuba
because of the pope's crucial role in helping to heal half a century of Cold
War bitterness in the hemisphere.
"This
pope has been the ambassador of this miraculous moment for humanity. He's a
historic figure," said Perez, who created a painting of two hands clasping
across a map of the Americas in honor of Francis's visit.
Pope
Francis climbs the steps to the altar on his arrival to give mass in
Havana's
Revolution Square on September 20, 2015 (AFP Photo/Tony Gentile)
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