Bandung’s Koffie Fabriek Puts The Aroma Back in the Cup

Jakarta Globe, M. Zakky Ramadhany, September 12, 2012

Koffie Fabriek has been roasting, grinding and brewing coffee
using the same techniques since 1930. (JG Photo)

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Among the stalls of spare motorbike parts on Jalan Banceuy in central Bandung is a sturdy slab building that has stood the test of time. The facade of this classic shopfront is a little worse for wear, the white paint peeling back over the rain-stained concrete, but the name of the shop is as clear as ever, spelled out in block lettering: “Aroma: Paberik Kopi.”

The Aroma Coffee Factory, also known by the Dutch name Koffie Fabriek Aroma, is a legendary establishment on Bandung’s culinary scene. It has been doing the same thing since 1930: producing high-quality coffee from some of Indonesia’s best beans.

It was a scorching hot day when I went to visit Koffie Fabriek Aroma with my friend, who wanted to buy some coffee for his grandfather. He didn’t want to give his grandfather any old beans — it was a gift, so he only wanted to buy the best. Having heard about the legendary grind at Aroma, we made it our first stop.

The streets are always clogged on weekends in Bandung, and this day was no exception. Cars and motorbikes filled the street outside the store. We finally found a parking spot nearby and made our way to the shaded entrance of the grand, old building.

The moment we walked in the door, we knew where Koffie Fabriek Aroma got its name: The air was thick with the rich aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans. I was fasting at the time, and the smell was overwhelmingly tantalizing.

Inside we were greeted by owner Widyapratama, better known Pak Wid, who has been involved in the business his whole life. Pak Wid’s father opened Aroma in 1930, and passed it on to his son in 1971. Wanting to continue his father’s legacy, Pak Wid runs the business exactly as it was done in the old days, even using the same old-fashioned machinery to sort and roast the beans.

We weren’t the only ones eager to get a taste of Aroma’s special blends — there was already a line of customers trailing out the door when we got there. Waiting in line, I studied the many options available and started to feel a little confused. I didn’t really know the difference between arabica and robusta, let alone which variety to choose.

I did learn was that arabica is best kept for eight years before roasting, and robusta for five.

“The aim of storing coffee for a long time [before roasting] is to reduce the water content so that it’s easier to digest, and so we don’t feel bloated when we drink it,” Pak Wid informed us.

After years of being left to dry, the beans at Aroma are roasted on-site then sold whole, ground or brewed. Even the grind comes in multiple options, from fine to semi-coarse and coarse, each suited to a different brewing method. Coarse grind is best for use in a French press or percolator, a semi-fine grind is best for drip coffee-makers, while a fine grind is great for espresso machines or thrown straight in the cup, as in the Indonesian style kopi tubruk.

I decided to take a bag of coffee home with me to enjoy later. I asked for a quarter-kilogram of mokka arabika (arabica mocha) in a fine grind. Meanwhile, my friend chose arabica beans from Toraja, South Sulawesi. Toraja coffee is synonymous with quality in Indonesia, so he knew his grandfather would be impressed

The staff at Aroma ground the beans we ordered right there in front of us. Even though I couldn’t taste the coffee at that point, the smell of the grind itself lifted my mood and turned my thoughts to sundown, when I could finally break my fast and enjoy a hot cup of coffee at home.

The grounds was packed neatly into two white paper bags with a simple design printed on the front. In Dutch-style spelling, the bag read “Koffie Fabriek Aroma Bandoeng,” with the name of the grind stamped above it in ink. Classic, and very classy.

Pak Wid gave me some tips on how to best prepare the coffee. He said it was important to use fresh, boiling water, and to leave the brew for three minutes so that the aroma of the coffee could be released. Cream, honey and milk are optional additions, but to get the original coffee taste he suggested just adding a little sugar.

After sundown, I put his tips into practice. I chose a small teacup, added one teaspoonful of the mokka arabika and filled the cup with boiling water. As the coffee brewed, a layer of shiny, golden froth rose to the surface — this is known as crema , and is a sure sign of quality coffee. Just as Pak Wid said, after three minutes the aroma of the coffee burst out stronger than before.

After the first sip, I knew why people raved about this coffee. On the second sip, I understood why they were prepared to stand in line to buy it. And on the third sip, I knew I had to recommend this coffee to all my friends.

For die-hard coffee lovers, Koffie Fabriek Aroma is an experience not to be missed.