Koffie Fabriek has been roasting, grinding and brewing coffee using the same techniques since 1930. (JG Photo) |
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Among the
stalls of spare motorbike parts on Jalan Banceuy in central Bandung is a sturdy
slab building that has stood the test of time. The facade of this classic
shopfront is a little worse for wear, the white paint peeling back over the
rain-stained concrete, but the name of the shop is as clear as ever, spelled
out in block lettering: “Aroma: Paberik Kopi.”
The Aroma
Coffee Factory, also known by the Dutch name Koffie Fabriek Aroma, is a
legendary establishment on Bandung’s culinary scene. It has been doing the same
thing since 1930: producing high-quality coffee from some of Indonesia’s best
beans.
It was a
scorching hot day when I went to visit Koffie Fabriek Aroma with my friend, who
wanted to buy some coffee for his grandfather. He didn’t want to give his
grandfather any old beans — it was a gift, so he only wanted to buy the best.
Having heard about the legendary grind at Aroma, we made it our first stop.
The streets
are always clogged on weekends in Bandung, and this day was no exception. Cars
and motorbikes filled the street outside the store. We finally found a parking
spot nearby and made our way to the shaded entrance of the grand, old building.
The moment
we walked in the door, we knew where Koffie Fabriek Aroma got its name: The air
was thick with the rich aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans. I was fasting at
the time, and the smell was overwhelmingly tantalizing.
Inside we
were greeted by owner Widyapratama, better known Pak Wid, who has been involved
in the business his whole life. Pak Wid’s father opened Aroma in 1930, and
passed it on to his son in 1971. Wanting to continue his father’s legacy, Pak
Wid runs the business exactly as it was done in the old days, even using the
same old-fashioned machinery to sort and roast the beans.
We weren’t
the only ones eager to get a taste of Aroma’s special blends — there was
already a line of customers trailing out the door when we got there. Waiting in
line, I studied the many options available and started to feel a little
confused. I didn’t really know the difference between arabica and robusta, let
alone which variety to choose.
I did learn
was that arabica is best kept for eight years before roasting, and robusta for
five.
“The aim of
storing coffee for a long time [before roasting] is to reduce the water content
so that it’s easier to digest, and so we don’t feel bloated when we drink it,”
Pak Wid informed us.
After years
of being left to dry, the beans at Aroma are roasted on-site then sold whole,
ground or brewed. Even the grind comes in multiple options, from fine to
semi-coarse and coarse, each suited to a different brewing method. Coarse grind
is best for use in a French press or percolator, a semi-fine grind is best for
drip coffee-makers, while a fine grind is great for espresso machines or thrown
straight in the cup, as in the Indonesian style kopi tubruk.
I decided
to take a bag of coffee home with me to enjoy later. I asked for a
quarter-kilogram of mokka arabika (arabica mocha) in a fine grind. Meanwhile,
my friend chose arabica beans from Toraja, South Sulawesi. Toraja coffee is
synonymous with quality in Indonesia, so he knew his grandfather would be
impressed
The staff
at Aroma ground the beans we ordered right there in front of us. Even though I
couldn’t taste the coffee at that point, the smell of the grind itself lifted
my mood and turned my thoughts to sundown, when I could finally break my fast
and enjoy a hot cup of coffee at home.
The grounds
was packed neatly into two white paper bags with a simple design printed on the
front. In Dutch-style spelling, the bag read “Koffie Fabriek Aroma Bandoeng,”
with the name of the grind stamped above it in ink. Classic, and very classy.
Pak Wid
gave me some tips on how to best prepare the coffee. He said it was important to
use fresh, boiling water, and to leave the brew for three minutes so that the
aroma of the coffee could be released. Cream, honey and milk are optional
additions, but to get the original coffee taste he suggested just adding a
little sugar.
After sundown,
I put his tips into practice. I chose a small teacup, added one teaspoonful of
the mokka arabika and filled the cup with boiling water. As the coffee brewed,
a layer of shiny, golden froth rose to the surface — this is known as crema ,
and is a sure sign of quality coffee. Just as Pak Wid said, after three minutes
the aroma of the coffee burst out stronger than before.
After the
first sip, I knew why people raved about this coffee. On the second sip, I
understood why they were prepared to stand in line to buy it. And on the third
sip, I knew I had to recommend this coffee to all my friends.
For
die-hard coffee lovers, Koffie Fabriek Aroma is an experience not to be missed.
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