Yahoo – AFP,
Joe Freeman, 21 December 2017
Jay Fai's eponymous streetside eatery shot to global fame overnight after it was awarded a Michelin star this month at the launch of Bangkok's first guide |
Wearing her
trademark ski goggles for protection from flying sparks, Thai cook Jay Fai
hunches over two sizzling woks as tourists from around the world line up in
three-hour-long queues at her modest streetside eatery.
The
72-year-old's crab-stuffed omelettes have always been popular among local
gourmands, but her eponymous restaurant shot to global fame overnight after it
was awarded a Michelin star this month at the launch of Bangkok's first guide.
While she
is proud of the achievement, former dressmaker Jay Fai is still adjusting to
the media frenzy that has seized her open-air kitchen in Bangkok's old quarter.
"There
are advantages and disadvantages," she told AFP as she flung ingredients
into a wok, explaining she did not have time for a formal interview.
"The
downside is being exhausted ... Also, the government wants me to promote
Thailand. I feel like I don't have a choice," she added.
She has
been asked to appear at the seaside town of Hua Hin for an international tennis
tournament this weekend, where she will teach top-ranked players to make her
signature crab omelette and the Thai soup dish Tom Yum Kung.
"I
will not be selling for two days," she said ruefully, adding that she
would even consider handing back the coveted star if it meant returning to her
normal routine.
Any
distraction from work means a loss of business for Jay Fai, whose spirited
cooking style -- a flurry of activity from grabbing handfuls of raw seafood to
dishing out plates of the finished product -- is one of the main attractions.
Her
supersized portions of crab and jumbo prawns are also part of the draw, though
the dishes are far pricier than the city's average street vendor at upwards of
$20 a pop.
The
unflashy eatery, which has partial indoor seating, was the only streetside
venue among the 17 Bangkok restaurants awarded stars on December 6, when
Michelin unveiled its first guide for the Thai capital.
Michelin
only awards stars to establishments with fixed addresses, leaving many of
Bangkok's famous roadside stalls out of the running at a time when the city is
attempting to move them off the pavements and into organised markets.
Jay Fai had
heard of the brand name Michelin but was not aware that the French tyre company
had anything to do with cooking.
She is not
the first chef to feel the heat over the flood of attention that comes with a
Michelin star.
In
September a chef in southern France with three stars said he wanted to be
stripped of the award because of the "huge pressure" to meet its
standards on a daily basis.
But Jay
Fai's colleagues are not worried about her.
"She's
quite strong. She never gets ill," said Kung, an assistant who has worked
there for 10 years.
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