For the dead

The Jakarta Post, Fri, 12/31/2010

Local villagers in Saddang, North Toraja, South Sulawesi, take part in a traditional burial procession called Mabadong, which involves animal sacrifice. (Antara/Sahrul Manda Tikupadang

President to present saplings as Christmas gift

Antara News, Tuesday, December 22, 2009 21:00 WIB

Jakarta (ANTARA News) - President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono will give saplings as his Christmas present to the Christian community on the occasion of a Christmas celebration on December 27, the event`s chief organizer said.

"President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono will symbolically present a coconut tree sapling to a child at the Christmas celebration at the Jakarta Convention Hall on December 27," the chief organizer of the celebration, EE Mangindaan, told newsmen here on Tuesday.

Mangindaan who is state minister for administrative reform said Indonesia is now facing various problems from economic and financial problems to education and social welfare.

The national committee however would only focus on efforts to appeal to people to participate in environmental preservation efforts to reduce pollution, he said.

"Therefore, the decorations later will be dominated by green color to make it a `Green Christmas` and not a `White Christmas", he said jokingly.

He said the event would also be attended by First Lady Mrs Ani Yudhoyono, Vice President Boediono and Mrs Herawati Boediono, cabinet ministers and other high-ranking officials.

Around six thousand people from various cities such as Merauke in Papua, Maumere in East Nusa Tenggara and Toraja, South Sulawesi would attend the celebration.

He was optimistic the event would run well, especially because the organizing committee`s vice chairman was Major General Darpito who is the commander of the Jakarta Military Command.

Regarding the cost of the celebration, Mangindaan said with a smile that the committee`s burden was small because it had received many contributions such as buses for transporting participants and for shows while some participants would pay their own travel costs.

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TIME 2008 in Makassar successfully concluded

November 7, 2008 in Events, (Forimmediaterelease.net) 

MAKASSAR - The Indonesian annual travel mart, Tourism Indonesia Mart&Expo (TIME) or ‘Pasar Wisata Indonesia’ is concluded today with total attendance of 104 buyers from 21 countries. The top five buyers consisted of Malaysia, Korea, India and Indonesia, Singapore, and the Netherlands. TIME 2008 also attracted 108 sellers from 16 provinces of Indonesia, which mostly come from Jakarta, South Sulawesi, Bali, North Sulawesi, West Nusa Tenggara, Yogyakarta and East Kalimantan, and Papua. The percentage of sellers based on industry is hotel, resort and spa (75 percent), NTO (10 percent), tour operator/travel agent (7 percent), adventure/activity holiday (3 percent), airline (1.5 percent), and others (hotel management, tourism board, tourism organization and travel portal (8.5 percent). 

The above was reported during the closing press conference of TIME 2008 by the organizing committee of TIME 2008. “Despite the current global financial crisis and EU ban to Indonesian airlines, TIME 2008 has booked an estimated transaction of US$15.2 million," said Meity Robot, chairperson of TIME 2008. 

“The conduct of TIME 2008 in Makassar has proven successful as a result of good cooperation among the organizing committee and organizer of TIME 2008 together with the local committee, which comprises the provincial government of South Sulawesi, City of Makassar, and the entire tourism industry, as well as associations in South Sulawesi and Makassar," said Meity. 

“We have heard some positive comments and constructive notes have been expressed by delegates of TIME 2008 saying that Makassar has grown significantly since the last TIME 2006 and has shown tremendous progress in featuring the city as a travel and MICE destination, with its newest international airport and convention center, as well as development of new hotels and tourism attractions," said Meity. 

Buyers and international travel writers are given the opportunity to take part in the post-tour program to Toraja for 3 days and 2 nights. 

The organizing committee of TIME has decided that next year’s TIME will be held in Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara. At press time by West Nusa Tenggara yesterday, the provincial government of West Nusa Tenggara represented by the vice chairman of DPRD West Nusa Tenggara, in association with the Lombok and Sumbawa tourism board, stated that with full support from the provincial government of West Nusa Tenggara, together with the entire tourism industry and association, they are ready to host TIME 2009 and 2010 and will assure that the venue, as well as infrastructure, will be ready in time so that TIME in Lombok will be successful. 

Lombok is only a 20-minute flight from Bali. The island possesses various tourism potentials, from nature (mountain, sea, and land) to culture and arts, which could attract an international market. Presently, Lombok has 3,000 hotel rooms with international standards. With the present development of hotels in Lombok, by 2009 Lombok will have around 3,500 hotel rooms. 

In terms of accessibility, Lombok is flown from Singapore by Silk Air; from Malaysia by Merpati Nusantara; from Jakarta by Garuda Indonesia, Lion Air, and Batavia Air; from Surabaya by Merpati Nusantara, Lion Air, Batavia Air, and Citylink; and from Bali by Merpati Nusantara, Trigana Air, and Indonesia Air Transport. Beginning December 2008, the island will have a direct flight from Perth, Australia. Moreover, Lombok is now developing its international airport. 

“The shifting of TIME to Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara will be for two consecutive years - 2009 and 2010 - and is aimed at promoting Lombok and West Nusa Tenggara to the international market, as well as to foster the development of tourism facilities and improvement of infrastructure in the region so that at the end, the destination could enjoy itself as a global travel destination," Meity Robot concluded. 

Last year, TIME 2006 in Makassar was attended by 110 buyers from 21 countries and 124 sellers from 20 provinces with a recorded transaction value of USD$15 million, whereas previously TIME 2005 in Yogyakarta was attended by 84 buyers from 23 countries and 128 sellers from 20 provinces with a transaction value of USD$13 million. 

TIME 2008 is supported by the ministry of culture and tourism of the Republic of Indonesia, South Sulawesi provincial government, the city of Makassar, the South Sulawesi culture and tourism office, the Makassar culture and tourism office, Garuda Indonesia as the official carrier, Singapore Airlines, Etihad Airways, Korean Air, INACA (Indonesia National Air Carriers Association), BARINDO (Board of Airline Representatives Indonesia), the embassies of Indonesia overseas, ASITA (Indonesian tour operators and travel agencies) South Sulawesi, PHRI (Indonesia Hotel and Restaurant Association) South Sulawesi and Makassar, the Indonesian Conference and Convention Association (INCCA), Pacto Convex as the event organizer, Indo Multi Media as the offical media partner, TTG Asia and Venue Magazine as supporting media partners, and Bulanmadu.com. 

Tiara P.I. Hasibuan Project Leader Pacto Convex Ltd. Tel: (62-21) 570 5800 Ext. 214 Fax: (62-21) 570 5798      Email: tiara_hsb@cbn.net.id Website: www.pasarwisata.com

Skulls and sacrifice in South Sulawesi

Jennifer Bennett, The Jakarta Post

Let's get this out of the way first: Tana Toraja is not a suitable holiday destination for any of the following: committed vegetarians, animal rights activists, or anyone with a pressing sense of their own mortality.

But if you like your meat, don't get squeamish at the sight of trussed-up pigs on their way to slaughter, and have no problems with a few skeletons, then the green hills of South Sulawesi are for you.

The elegant tongkonan houses that sit like boats on a green sea play a central role in Torajan culture. They can neither be bought nor sold (although apparently they can be dismantled and sold in pieces to those wanting to take home a souvenir.

Newly carved and painted house panels can be found for around Rp 50,000 all over the place, but for an authentic piece of Toraja, keep an eye out for sales of old houses, with weathered panels going for around Rp 200,000) and generally last for a century or two.

Their peaked roofs represent the boats the Torajans believe their ancestors sailed up the river when they arrived, but they also bring to mind the buffaloes that are so important to the local economy and culture.

The houses are covered in carvings representing social status and the local belief system, while a family's importance can also be measured by the number of buffalo horns hanging from the front of the house. The more horns, the more funerals.

The Torajans are obsessed with death, but in a cheerful way. The most important thing in a Torajan's life is saving enough money and having enough children to ensure their funeral is the best party in town.

Tourists are welcome at Torajan funerals -- you're just another guest, although don't wear black unless you're a close member of the family, and avoid the color red. Provided you visit at the right time of year -- from June to October -- you should have little problem finding a funeral to attend.

Funerals are often held years after death, the body having spent the intervening time lying in state beneath the family home. The family uses the time to save for the big day, which will be a huge affair, involving hundreds of guests who will bring dozens of buffalo and pigs, all destined to be slaughtered and eaten that afternoon.

Most Torajans are Christians, converted by Dutch missionaries early last century. Before that the dominant faith was a form of animism, remnants of which can still be seen in the funerals and graves, and which is still practiced by a small group of people.

White churches dot the countryside, along with house graves, graves cut into boulders and hanging graves complete with effigies of the dead.

Torajans are rarely buried in the ground. Instead, they are placed in hanging graves, where coffins have been suspended high in the air on the side of a cliff, as well as deep tombs cut into the rock and natural cave graves. Displayed along with them are effigies of the dead, known as tau tau.

The cave grave of Tampangallo, accessible along a path through quiet rice paddies, is probably the best and most easily accessible of its type. The tau tau are gathered in low balconies looking down on their slowly rotting coffins and the bleached bones of the dead.

But rather than being spooky, the atmosphere is more that of a going-away party, with the dead about to board their boats to the afterlife.

The cliff graves of Lemo and Londa are surrounded by rice fields of such a bright green that during the day the color is almost blinding. Buffalo wallow in mud pools while small children hunt for tiny fish as their parents check the crops and pick vegetables. At Londa, coffins are suspended from rocky overhangs, while at Lemo, the dead look out over the fields.

But the smallest of the Torajan graves are also the most touching. "Baby Trees" are the resting places of children who died before they started teething. While only those who follow the traditional religion still use them, they are looked after by all Torajans and are regarded as an important part of the old ways.

Once a child dies, the mother must bring it to the tree, in which she will cut a hole and place the child inside. As the tree heals itself it absorbs the body of the child. Many trees have been used for decades, and it is possible to see the small scars that indicate a long-ago grave.

Most of Toraja's main sights are within a half-hour drive from the town of Rantepao, which has a wide range of hotels, most of which have hot water, something of a necessity this high up, as the nights can be chilly. Few hotels have air conditioning, and it's not really needed.

We stayed at the Wisma Monton (twin room with bathroom Rp 125,000 a night, including breakfast, Jl. Abdul Gani 14A, ph. 062 423 21675), which has fantastic views looking out over the surrounding mountains and a quiet rooftop restaurant.

As mentioned earlier, Toraja is not the best place for vegetarians. Buffalo satay is a common dish, and most menus feature a wide range of Indonesian foods with a few western standards thrown in. Traditional bamboo-cooked dishes (pork, carp or chicken with steamed vegetables) are also available at most restaurants, although they need to be ordered two and half hours in advance.

Also worth trying are the local carp, which are raised in ponds in the middle of rice paddies. Restoran Mambu and Mart's Caf‚ (both on Jl. Sam Ratulangi) have almost identical menus and serve cold beer.

While there is public transport in the form of bemo, hiring a driver (Rp 400,000 - Rp 500,000 a day, including petrol and lunch for the driver) is a good idea, as you'll save a lot of time and many of the roads are in poor condition. Most funerals are held at people's homes, so public transportation may only take you to the bottom of a very steep, very rocky hill.

A guide (Rp 200,000 a day) is also indispensable, as they will be able to plan a decent itinerary for you, explain the history and often confusing culture, and are your best way to see a funeral.

It is possible to arrange all of this on arrival at Makassar airport, where you will be instantly pounced upon by what seems like every tour operator in the area. Our advice: sit down at one of the cafes at the airport, have a coffee, and then go speak to the people who didn't bother you.

We ended up dealing with the nice people at Petro Tours, who arranged tickets on the air-conditioned executive bus to Toraja (Rp 70,000 -- includes more leg room than some business-class flights and will drop you at your hotel), a driver for two days, entry fees to cultural sites and funerals (most sites charge about Rp 10,000 each).

While there is no charge for attending a funeral, guests should bring a present -- usually, it must be said, a carton of cigarettes. Our guide, the fantastic Yoseph Nasaret, who cannot be recommended highly enough.

After two days of funerals and graves, graves, graves, he took us on a seven-kilometer walk through rice paddies and villages, pausing for a fantastic lunch at a restaurant overlooking the valley. He has an in-depth knowledge of the area and its history and speaks excellent English.

Visitors to Toraja should also bring presents for the children you'll meet in the countryside. Sweets are to be avoided but brightly colored markers go down very well with the under-12 population.