Yahoo – AFP,
Cyril Julien, 22 June 2014
Tehran (AFP) - Under the compulsory veil and despite hard times, Iranian women are unrestrained in showing off one feature on which they feel a need to spend money. Their faces.
An Iranian
woman tries on a lipstick at a cosmetics shop in northern Tehran
on May 6, 2014
(AFP Photo/Atta Kenare)
|
Tehran (AFP) - Under the compulsory veil and despite hard times, Iranian women are unrestrained in showing off one feature on which they feel a need to spend money. Their faces.
Everyday
wearing of makeup is probably more common in Iran, an Islamic republic, than in
some liberal western countries. It is a rare opportunity to parade one's beauty
without fear of official censure.
With a
female population of more than 38 million, Iran is the second-largest cosmetics
market in the Middle East in terms of revenue, behind Saudi Arabia, and the
world's seventh biggest.
An Iranian
woman checks make up at
a cosmetics shop in northern Tehran on
May 6, 2014 (AFP
Photo/Atta Kenare)
|
The French
luxury brand Lancome recently announced a return to Iran after decades away,
inviting around 400 industry types and artists to one of the biggest hotels in
Tehran to celebrate its comeback.
It was the
first time since the 1979 Islamic revolution that a major Western brand --
Lancome is the number one luxury line of the L'Oreal group -- had been launched
with such fanfare.
No American
cosmetics brands have been sold on the official Iranian market since the US
imposed a trade embargo in the 1980s.
US and EU
sanctions on oil and other industries remain in force in Iran despite an
interim deal aimed at eventually ending the nation's nuclear standoff with the
West, but many foreign businesses have blamed the restrictions for hampering
trade.
Money to
be made
Makeup
professionals estimate that Iranian women buy approximately one tube of mascara
per month, dwarfing the one every four months bought by the French.
Lancome is
presented in Iran by the Safir perfume chain, a leading official distributor of
beauty products. Created in 2010, the chain now has nearly 20 branches across
the country.
"It's
a booming market, which is roughly several hundred million dollars," a
brand representative says, adding that this amount is split between its own
distribution and the grey market.
Only 40
percent of Iran's market is controlled by official distributors. The rest is
divided among bootleggers who operate in parallel in bazaars and small shops
that import cosmetics and makeup illegally, says Pegah Goshayeshi, Safir's
chief executive.
Imports are
costly as regulations are strict and various government officials must approve
a product before it is given a label that guarantees its quality.
Wearing
makeup does not violate the laws of the Islamic republic, however, because
Islam does not prohibit perfumes or cosmetics.
An
ancient tradition
"The
Prophet Mohammed himself used perfume," Goshayeshi says.
Makeup is
also a form of personal expression in a society where compulsory wearing of
hijab requires women to cover their hair and their body in loose clothing when
outside, regardless of their religion.
Tastes in makeup vary in different parts of the country. In northern Iran, a coloured mascara and perfumes with a flowery fragrance is preferred, while women in the south tend to buy black mascara and stronger, more musky perfumes.
An Iranian
woman stands in an upscale cosmetics shop in northern Tehran
on May 6, 2014
(AFP Photo/Atta Kenare)
|
Tastes in makeup vary in different parts of the country. In northern Iran, a coloured mascara and perfumes with a flowery fragrance is preferred, while women in the south tend to buy black mascara and stronger, more musky perfumes.
Iranian men
are also gradually leaning toward using more cosmetics.
"They
take better care of their skin, because they want to look younger,"
Goshayeshi adds.
In a
country affected by a severe economic crisis, partly because of Western
sanctions, makeup is considered expensive but it is often a small salve to help
forget everyday problems.
"Makeup
has an impact on the one who wears it ... I put on makeup because I love it. I
enjoy wearing it. It makes me feel fresh and calm," says Forough Heidari,
a 42-year-old physiotherapist.
And the
Iranian market is by no means saturated.
"There
is still room for luxury goods in the medium or low-end market" despite
the presence of 20 Iranian and foreign brands, says Vista Bavar, founder and
director of the Caprice brand.
"Iran
has a large youth population, most of whom still live with their parents. They
do not have to care too much about expenses" and can spend a lot on beauty
products, she adds.
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