The Qasr al-Farid tomb (The Lonely Castle) carved into rose-coloured sandstone in Madain Saleh, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Saudi Arabia's Al-Ula governorate |
Bathed in light, musicians belt out melodies among pre-Islamic desert ruins in northwestern Saudi Arabia, a heritage trove at the centre of efforts to put the reclusive kingdom on the tourism map.
Hosted by
the Al-Ula governorate -- where Nabatean tombs and art are chiseled into
caramel-hued rock -- "Winter at Tantora" is the latest music carnival
in the Islamic kingdom, where such events were unheard of just two years ago.
Spread over
eight weekends until February 9, the main events are hosted in an auditorium
made of mirrored glass that has drawn international artists, from Lebanese
singer Majida El Roumi to French classical violinist Renaud Capucon.
And it
shines a spotlight on a long-isolated area seen widely as an open-air museum.
"Saudi
Arabia is turning a new page," said Zainab al-Kadadi, a Riyadh-based
banker.
The
29-year-old attended a musical weekend that also included sand dune bashing --
an adventure sport that involves driving across challenging desert landscapes
-- and a tour of an Ottoman-era train station.
The new
purpose-built Maraya (Arabic for "Mirror") concert hall hosting the first
"Winter at Tantora" music carnival among the UNESCO World
Heritage listed ruins
|
The
festival is seen as a soft opening of Al-Ula, an area roughly the size of
Belgium that is being touted as the centrepiece of Saudi attractions, as the
conservative petro-state prepares to open up to international tourists.
Building a
tourism industry from scratch is at the heart of a government plan to prepare
the Arab world's biggest economy for a post-oil era, an ambition fraught with
challenges.
The austere
kingdom, which forbids alcohol and has a strict social code, is already seen by
many as a hard sell for tourists.
Recent
events that drew international censure -- notably the gruesome murder last year
of critic Jamal Khashoggi and a sweeping crackdown on dissent -- appear to have
made the challenge more acute.
"Saudi
has great tourism potential, but after what happened it's hard to come here and
say 'Everything is wow, everything is amazing'," said a Westerner who was
among a group of global social media influencers invited by the kingdom for an
all-expenses-paid trip to Al-Ula.
"When
I went to collect my (Saudi) visa, my friends joked: 'Hope you return alive!'."
The October
2 murder of Khashoggi, whose body was dismembered by a team of Saudi agents
inside the kingdom's Istanbul consulate, triggered global outrage.
Kingdom of 'fun'
French solo violinist Renaud Capucon performs with pianists during the music carnival |
Kingdom of 'fun'
If Al-Ula
were in another country, it would be an easier sell, others in the group
suggested.
"The
biggest obstacle is stereotypes," said Kyle Mijlof, a 30-year-old travel
photographer from Cape Town.
A
liberalisation drive by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, known as MBS, has
brought new cinemas, concerts and sporting extravaganzas.
While it is
yet to offer tourist visas, the country fast-tracked electronic permits for
visitors to attend the festival.
The kingdom
organised a similar process in December for a motor sports event in Riyadh,
where performances by artists like Enrique Iglesias and David Guetta -- and
thumping after-parties -- were on offer.
"We
live in a Saudi Arabia where by day children may be told that music is
forbidden but by night they are taken to music concerts," said a Saudi
artist, highlighting a social dichotomy.
A
liberalisation drive by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman has brought new
cinemas, concerts and sporting extravaganzas
|
In a
country where two-thirds of the population is under 30, amping up entertainment
that allows citizens to have fun aims ostensibly to blunt public frustration
over an economic downturn and soaring youth unemployment.
"MBS
may have borrowed from the playbook of the ancient Roman empire, which hoped
'panem et circenses' –- bread and games -– would be enough to make citizens
acquiescent," said Cinzia Bianco, a Middle East analyst at Gulf State
Analytics.
"The
belief is that if they are engrossed in worries about making money and having
fun, they will have no interest in politics and dissent."
'Changing
the narrative'
Preparations
for the Al-Ula festival "accelerated" after the Khashoggi crisis
erupted, as authorities have been keen to turn the page on his murder, a
Western consultant close to the organisers told AFP on condition of anonymity.
An official
close to the organisers denied that it was a diversionary tactic, saying
planning for the festival was in the works well before the murder.
A tourist
looks at a formation known as "Elephant rock"
|
Saudi
Arabia is seeking to preserve heritage sites that predate Prophet Mohammed's
life in the seventh century.
The sites
have long been neglected or vandalised, because glorifying them is considered
blasphemous by religious conservatives.
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