The Indonesian fashion scene continually proves itself an unstoppable force, simultaneously embracing its famed designers while ushering in burgeoning talent. One hot newcomer is Jakarta’s own Steven Huang, whose cutting-edge creations, unconventional working methods and meticulous attention to detail led those at an event organized by Cosmopolitan magazine at Immigrant in Plaza Indonesia on Wednesday to agree that they were in the presence of one of the next big designers.
“My fashion designs make women look sexy and avant-garde” says the 27-year-old, whose fans and customers agree that his designs — which very rarely use patterns and are born of mere muse and fabric draped on a mannequin — defy convention. And while the process of taking an outfit from its birth on a mannequin to its debut on a night out might seem lengthy, the adroit designer’s dresses are finished in anywhere from a few hours to a couple of days, pleasing even the most relentless customer.
He pinches and stitches fabric here and there to create a sexy silhouettes. There is no fitting after the dresses are finished, yet his designs feel their way across each of the body’s contours precisely. He works extremely fast, combining several fabrics and adding details like bows, frills and strands of silvery chains to complete his creations.
Originally from Riau, this up-and-comer only recently decided to go full-tilt into the fashion industry.
“This is only my second show since I decided to focus solely on fashion,” said Steven, who kicked around several office jobs in Jakarta before dedicating himself to his true passion. Today, the promising designer works under his own label, S Code, from his workshop in Manggarai, South Jakarta.
Under the theme Opposites, his fashion show was divided into two sequences that featured 12 outfits from his spring/summer collection.
In the first sequence, Steven presented his chic and feminine dress collection. Tall, waif-like models strolled along the catwalk draped in white silk satin dresses that played to halter necks and off-shoulder styles. Here and there, the luxuriant outfits were pinched and stitched to create soft and sexy silhouettes that revealed Steven’s attention to detail.
“I was inspired by the dresses of the Greek goddesses,” Steven said. “They are feminine, skillful and smart — the very portrait of today’s modern women.”
Steven said he chose silk satin, which breathes easily even in tropical weather, because of its glossy, shimmering look.
“The dresses are ideal to wear at big events and parties,” the designer said. “Despite being sheer they are not see-through, even under strong spotlights like tonight’s.”
On the runway, a short black ball gown that puffed out at the waist and had soft frills and ruffles down the front took on an exceptionally enchanting look. Meanwhile, a one-shouldered blue dress with a white bow tied at the waist presented a relaxed and breezy effect one might call resort-chic.
Steven’s second sequence, which showcased another six pieces, ran in stark contrast to his Greek-goddess opener. Dominated by dark solid colors, the collection featured waist-high Jodhpur pants with stiff triangle ornaments, tight-fitting blouses with heavy padding and chunky silvery chains about the neck.
“Every woman has a masculine side,” Steven said. “With my attire, a woman can bring out that strong, masculine side of her personality while looking sexy and adorable at the same time.”
Even a mini-dress, with its highly pointed shoulders, stiff collars and silver zipper down the front, bore some masculine traits. On the sides of the dress were double-stitched burst patterns reminiscent of a basketball. “I think they make the dress look more sexy and fashionable,” Steven said.
Steven’s customers applaud his alacrity and ability to produce luxurious outfits posthaste, and his show at Immigrant was no different. He and three of his staff members cut and stitched each of the night’s outfits in only eight days.
When his clients come to his workshop, he listens to what they want, lays the materials on a mannequin and starts cutting and sewing right away.
“So they come to me and then leave to stroll the mall for two or three hours and by the time they come back, the dress is ready,” Steven said.
The event’s master of ceremonies, Marcella Bustami, attested to Steven’s speed and skill.
“[Making my outfit] was an extremely quick process, almost unbelievably so,” she said. Marcella wore black, waist-high skinny pants with a cropped white duchess satin jacket accentuated with a little bow on the backside. The result was a slim silhouette that arrested attention.
“I love Steven Huang,” said Monica Cindy, one of the designer’s loyal customers. “He is so simple and works pretty fast. He made this dress in only an hour and a half, without any fitting.”
Monica wore a one-shoulder fuchsia dress that was pinched and gathered in several places and embellished with strands of silvery chains. “This dress is pretty simple, yet it has a lot of ornaments and details. I like it a lot,” she said.
“Steven’s style is very cutting-edge,” Marcella said. “His dresses are simple, but he puts a lot of detail into them. And he also has a very good at understanding of the materials he’s using. He employs unorthodox ways of working. He puts the cloth on a mannequin, plays around with it and suddenly, it’s finished. He’s very imaginative.”
In 2010, Steven plans to launch his ready-to-wear label, S Code, and open a boutique in Central Jakarta .
“Young designers starting out in the fashion industry should keep their eyes and ears open,” Steven said. “Always learn and don’t be shy to ask for advice from those designers who are established. With perseverance, I believe those designers with less experience can also make it in this industry.”
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