Jakarta Globe, Katrin
Figge, March 23, 2013
For Indonesia\'s high-society women of the 19th and 20th centuries, batik indicated wealth and status. (JG Photo/Katrin Figge) |
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Batik, the
traditional Indonesian cloth hand-made using a wax-based resist-dyeing
technique, is as well-known in Indonesia — and abroad — as nasi goreng.
But not
everybody is familiar with Batik Belanda; batik featuring motifs influenced by
Dutch culture.
Many Dutch
citizens who lived in Indonesia during the colonial era took a liking to batik
but over time added colors and patterns that were more familiar to their
European origins, such as flowers and images from fairy tales.
An
exhibition at Dutch cultural center Erasmus Huis in Kuningan, South Jakarta, in
collaboration with Jakarta Fashion Week, the Jakarta Textile Museum, Galeri
Batik and batik collector Asmoro Damais, is currently showing several batik
fabrics made between 1840 and 1940.
At its peak
in the 19th century, Batik Belanda may have been produced by the Dutch for
their market back home — as opposed to Indonesian women who made batik sarongs
for personal, not commercial uses — but the people who worked on the European
designs were still mainly Indonesians.
“The term
‘Batik Belanda’ will lead people who are not familiar with it to believe that
this is a mainly Dutch thing, which it isn’t,” long-time batik collector Asmoro
said at the exhibition’s recent opening.
The oldest
fabrics at Erasmus Huis date back to the mid-19th century and are handled with
care, as the colors have faded and the cloth is prone to tearing. Other pieces
are surprisingly well-preserved.
What they
have in common is the representation of a particular era of Indonesian history,
and should be regarded as a valuable piece of the country’s cultural heritage.
Foreign
influence
More than
simply displaying old batik fabrics and new designs, the exhibition also
includes excerpts from the 1993 book “Batik Belanda 1840-1940 Dutch Influence
in Batik from Java History and Sources,” written by Harmen C. Veldhuisen and
translated into Indonesian.
“For many
women who used batik at the time, having a big collection of batik sarongs was
a proof of their social status,” Veldhuisen wrote. “Batik was also seen as a
good, solid investment.”
He added
that it was very common among women to show off their collections whenever they
received visitors, following the unspoken rule that the larger and older the
collection — preferably including family heirlooms — the greater the host’s
social capital.
Several
Dutch producers played an important role in the batik industry, and
interestingly, there were quite a few women among them.
Catharina
van Oosterom began producing batik in Semarang, Central Java, in 1845, while
Ms. L. Metzelaar did the same in 1880.
“Ms.
Metzelaar was the pioneer in using flower patterns as a motif for batik,”
Veldhuisen explained, adding that flowers and little birds subsequently became
a trend among batik motifs, and Metzelaar’s designs were often copied.
One of the
most famous female batik producers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries,
however, was Eliza van Zuylen, who introduced intricate patterns and details
into her designs as well as Chinese and Arabic nuances that started appearing
across the industry.
Batik has
also seen Japanese and Indian influences over the years, weaving a rich
tapestry of more than just Indonesia’s story and traditions.
Batik
Belanda
Through
April 4
Erasmus
Huis
Jl. H.R.
Rasuna Said Kav. S3, Kuningan, South Jakarta
Tel. 021 524 1069
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