Jakarta Globe, Dyah Ayu Pitaloka, Apr 06, 2014
Malang. Rice cakes wrapped in palm leaves, or ketupat, is a usually a treat reserved for the Islamic holiday of Idul Fitri, but for Hindus in Malang, East Java, ketupat serves as a customary dish in celebrating Nyepi, the day of silence.
The various ceremonies that make up the Nyepi ceremony for Hindus in Malang, East Java, are a colorful blend of Balinese and Javanese culture. (JG Photo/ Dyah Ayu Pitaloka) |
Malang. Rice cakes wrapped in palm leaves, or ketupat, is a usually a treat reserved for the Islamic holiday of Idul Fitri, but for Hindus in Malang, East Java, ketupat serves as a customary dish in celebrating Nyepi, the day of silence.
Ketupat and
lepet, a similar type of rice cake, but mixed with coconut gratings and other
ingredients and packed into an elongated shape rather than the boxy bulk of the
ketupat, symbolizes the phallus and the womb — the two primary elements of
conception.
Last week,
33 educational institutions and temples in Malang participated in a ceremony on
Balekambang Beach to celebrate one of the biggest holidays in the local Hindu
calendar.
The
ceremony, called Jala Nidhi Puja, is held before Nyepi and it beautifully
displays the diversity of Indonesia. In Sanskrit, “jala ” means sea, “nidhi ”
means sanctity and “puja ” means ceremony.
Dance of virgins
(JG Photo/Dyah Ayu Pitaloka) |
Dance of virgins
For years,
thousands of Hindus in Malang have been meeting at Balekambang Beach in their
worship dress. The women typically wear a kebaya and batik sarong with white
head scarves. Others put on traditional Malang dresses.
On this
particular Friday, nine teenage girls in colorful kebayas moved to the rhythm
of the Javanese gamelan, dancing in a circle around a dancer in the instantly
recognizable black and white Balinese sarong. The dance, called Nata Muda
Karana , is considered as a sacred gesture to the gods, and may only be performed
by virgins.
“Before we
dance, we have to fast and follow a vegetarian diet for three days,” said Risa
Sinta Dewi, one of the dancers. “We practice the dance for about three months.”
Risa goes
to Tri Murti, a junior high school in Pakisaji, Malang, where the dance has
been taught from generation to generation. According to Tri Murti’s dance
teacher, Sri Wahyuni, the dance is usually performed in the middle of the first
ceremony.
“This dance
was created in 1973, combining elements of Bali with gending Java” — a type of
gamelan music — “and the Vedas,” the oldest scripture of Hinduism, Sri Wahyuni
says. “I am the second generation to pass it on to my students.”
A different offering
(JG Photo/Dyah Ayu Pitaloka) |
A different offering
Apart from
the use of ketupat and the Javanese gamelan, Hindus in Malang also decorate
their offerings differently from their better-known counterparts in Bali.
Every
offering contains five mandatory elements: leaves, flowers, fruits, water and
incense.
Suharsono,
the chairman of the Indonesian Hindu Association (PDHI) in Malang, said that
they customized their offerings according to the things that flourished in
their hometown, but staples like yellow rice, bananas and yellow palm fronds
were a common element.
Another way
their offerings differ from those in Bali is that the bananas aren’t sliced
thin, but rather offered up whole.
“We can’t
decorate our offerings as beautifully as Balinese offerings,” Suharsono said,
“but its religious function is the same.”
These
offerings are served in a purification ceremony called Utuhnya . Each
participating institution arranges its own offering and puts them in a
palanquin, which they set loose at sea after the communal prayer.
The Majapahit touch
(JG Photo/Dyah Ayu Pitaloka) |
The Majapahit touch
Ismoyo
Temple, which stands majestically in the center of the Ismoyo Island, has for
years been witness to the Jala Nidhi Puja procession, and last Friday it did so
again.
The roof of
the temple, which was built in 1985, resembles a set of tapered stairs, in the
style reminiscent of a typical Majapahit building. Even so, other ornaments
that are carved on the temple reflect architectural and cultural influences
from Bali.
“The
building combines elements of Bali and Java, but the worship function is the
same as in Balinese Hinduism,” Suharsono said.
Acculturation
between Hindu and Javanese traditions has occurred since the time of the
Majapahit, running from flourished from 1293 to around 1500 CE, when Hindu
spread rapidly along with the might of the Majapahit.
Following
the collapse of Majapahit kingdom in the 16th century, Hinduism spread to
various places and blended with the local culture.
Dwi
Cahyono, an archaeologist at the University of Malang, said there were various
relics that reflected the cultural mix: layered roofs that first appeared
during the Majapahit era are now commonly seen in mosques, such as the Mosque
of Demak.
Ogoh-ogoh
(JG Photo/Dyah Ayu Pitaloka) |
Ogoh-ogoh
Taur Agung
Kesanga , the second ceremony before Nyepi, took place at Karang Tengah in
Malang’s Glangang Pakisaji subdistrict last Sunday, a day before Nyepi.
Some 1,500
villagers, 850 of them Hindus, built their own ogoh-ogoh , or papier-mache monster
statues, to represent evil spirits.
It is
customary to burn all ogoh-ogoh before Hindus start fasting during Nyepi, as a
symbol of cleansing and starting the new year afresh.
“By burning
down ogoh-ogoh, we invoke to the gods or negative elements in the universe not
to bother us during Nyepi,” said Sucipto, head of Karang Tengah village.
After Taur
Agung Kesanga, residents immediately went home. Nyepi started at the stroke of
midnight on Sunday, and ran until Monday afternoon — again, differing from the
Balinese observation of the holiday, which runs from 6 a.m. on the day of Nyepi
to 6 a.m the next day.
But like
their Balinese counterparts, Hindus in Malang are not allowed to engage in any
worldly activities during this time and are encouraged to meditate.
The roads
along Karang Tengah look darker than usual. Adults usually stay indoors all
day, while teens meditate in temples. Only mosques and churches keep the lights
on.
“Our Muslim
neighbors also turn off the lights and do not hang out in the road, out of
respect for Nyepi,” Sucipto.
The series
of observations concluded on Tuesday with a ceremony to rekindle a fire and
spirit called Ngembak Geni .
For this
ceremony, worshipers usually head to the temples of Badut, Kidal and Singosari.
On Tuesday
morning, people came from far and wide carrying trays of crops and food as a
form of homage to their ancestors and a symbol of hope for abundant blessings
in 1939 Saka year.
The
Javanese influence is also strong here, and Ngembak Geni has adopted a lot of
the traditions from the Idul Fitri celebration.
For one,
those celebrating it go around to the homes of their relatives and neighbors to
seek forgiveness.
“The kids
will also get sangu ” — pocket money — “from relatives and neighbors, just like
during Idul Fitri,” Suharsono said.
And so, for
another year, the Hindus of Malang marked Nyepi in their own unique way — one
rich in tradition and proud of its pluralist roots.
No comments:
Post a Comment